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1、 What is a septic system? |
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A septic system is a highly efficient, self-contained, underground wastewater treatment system. Because septic systems treat and dispose of household wastewater onsite, they are often more economical than centralized sewer systems in rural areas where lot sizes are larger and houses are spaced widely apart.
Septic systems are also simple in design, which make them generally less expensive to install and
maintain. And by using natural processes to treat the wastewater onsite, usually in a homeowner's
backyard, septic systems don't require the installation of miles of sewer lines, making them less disruptive reference from Maryland University
web
A septic system consists of two main; a septic tank and a drainfield. The septic tank is a watertight box, usually made of concrete or fiberglass, with an inlet and outlet pipe. Wastewater flows from the home to the septic tank through the sewer pipe. The septic tank treats the wastewater naturally by holding it in the tank long enough for solids and liquids to separate. The wastewater forms three layers inside the tank. Solids lighter than water (such as greases and oils) float to the top forming a layer of scum. Solids heavier than water settle at the bottom of the tank forming a layer of sludge. This leaves a middle layer of partially clarified wastewater.
The layers of sludge and scum remain in the septic tank where bacteria found naturally in the wastewater work to break the solids down. The sludge and scum that cannot be broken down are retained in the tank until the tank is pumped.
The layer of clarified liquid flows from the septic tank to the drainfield or to a distribution device, which helps to uniformly distribute the wastewater in the drainfield. A standard drainfield (also known as a leaching field, disposal field, or a soil absorption system) is a series of trenches or a bed lined with gravel or course sand and buried one to three feet below the ground surface. Perforated pipes or drain tiles run through the trenches to distribute the wastewater. The drainfield treats the wastewater by allowing it to slowly trickle from the pipes out into the gravel and down through the soil. The gravel and soil act as biological filters.

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2. Classification of Septic Systems proved by BMEC & OBC |
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- NOTE: In 1998,
septic systems regulations were put into the "Building Code of
Ontario(OBC) which is administered by local
municipalities. You need prior approval from
your local municipality before you can undertake
any septic system construction.
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- A.
Conventional Septic System:
- B.
Alternative Septic System using Tertiary
Treatment:
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- C.
Septic Tank:
D.
Pumps:
- Effluent Filter Bed: a filter, installed
at the outlet of septic tank. This filter
dramatically improves the quality of effluent
discharged to the leaching bed.
- Chambered Septic systems:The chambered
system is a replacement for the conventional
stone and pipe leaching bed. The chambers
containing the distribution pipes are installed
in 0.5 - 0.9 metre wide trenches. The pipes are
not pressurized. Approximately the same length
of trench is used as with the pipe system, only
there is no crushed stone layer.
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3.
Engineering services for a septic
system |
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Our engineering services for on-site
sewage systems include the following:
- field topographic survey and subsurface
soil investigation of property
- laboratory analyses of soil samples to
assess percolation rates (Unified Soil
Classification System)
- preparation of detailed AutoCAD design
drawings (includes site & grading plan,
septic systems details, septic specifications
& notes)
- completion of a permit application for
Municipalities (i.e. Town or City)
- site inspections at the time of
construction to certify installation
In addition to preparing
detailed on-site sewage system designs, Gunnell
Engineering Ltd. provides the following
services:
- investigations & evaluations of
existing sewage systems
- consultation of the use of a tertiary
treatment system in place of a conventional
septic tank system
- investigations to provide subsurface
conditions & percolation rates
- laboratory analyses of delivered soil
samples to provide an estimated range of
percolation rates (`T¨ time)
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4.
Tips for Using Your Septic
System |
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Make efforts to minimize the amount of water
that goes into the onsite sewage system; typical
water use is about 227 liters (50 gallons) per
day for each person. Try not to exceed that
amount. Having a water meter installed will help
you monitor your water use.
Systems are designed to handle domestic
wastewater. Things that do not break down easily
(facial tissue, large amounts of vegetable
scrapings, coffee grounds, chemicals, paints,
oils, sanitary napkins, applicators, condoms,
medicines, pesticides, poisons, strong
disinfectants, etc.) can damage a system or
substantially increase the need for cleaning the
septic tank.
- Restrict the use of in-sink garbage
disposals. They add a large amount of organic
and inorganic material to your sewage, which may
exceed your system's capacity and cause it to
fail.
- Do not pour grease or cooking oil down
the drain (including toilet). Grease and oil is
hard to break down. It will eventually move into
the soil, plugging it off.
- Keep your fixtures in good repair. A
slow-running toilet can add large amounts of
water.
A running toilet discharging ? gallon
per minute will result in 360 gallons per day.
This is more water than a sewage system for a
3-bedroom home is designed for. To test the
toilet, put a few drops of food colouring in the
toilet tank. If it shows up in the bowl, it is
leaking. It may take as long as an hour for
colour to show in bowl.
Tips for Maintaining Your Onsite
Sewage System
- Wastewaters not included in the system's
design should not be put into the system. This
may include wastewater from:
- foundation weeping tile
drains,
- a hot tub, spa or hydro massage
bath exceeding a 2-person capacity,
- a
swimming pool,
- an iron filter,
- water
conditioning equipment that generates excessive
amounts of wastewater.
- Have a diagram showing the location of
your septic tank and disposal field.
- If not already in place, install
watertight manhole extensions to simplify septic
tank access.
- Make sure the access lids are
structurally sound, secure and
childproof.
- If access lids are buried, consider
raising them above grade to facilitate
access.
- Have the septic tank checked annually to
determine how often the tank needs to be pumped
out. (typically tanks are pumped out by a vacuum
truck approximately every two years)
- If pumps are used in the system, have any
pump screens cleaned (make sure they are
re-installed) and have the control operations
checked.
- Maintain adequate vegetative cover over
the disposal field. Keep the grass trimmed.
- Direct eavestrough downspouts, and other
surface water flows away from the septic tank
and disposal field.
- Systems are installed near the surface -
keep automobiles and heavy equipment off the
system. The piping and septic tanks can be
damaged by heavy traffic, and the traffic will
compact the ground reducing its ability to
absorb sewage effluent. In winter, traffic (even
from snowmobile paths) will drive frost into the
system causing it to freeze.
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5.CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR SEPTIC
TANK |
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BY ROGER E. MACHMEIER, Ph.D.,
P.E.
PROFESSOR EMERITUS, UNIVERSITY OF
MINNESOTA
Since the septic tank is such an
essential part of a sewage system, here are some
points to remember about the "care and feeding"
of that part of the onsite sewage treatment
system.
- A "starter" is not needed for bacterial
action to begin in a septic tank. Many bacteria
are present in the materials deposited into the
tank and will thrive under the growth conditions
present.
- If you feel that an additive is needed,
be aware that some may do great harm. Additives
that advertise to "eliminate" tank cleaning may
cause the sludge layer to fluff up and be washed
out into the drainfield, plugging soil pores.
Some additives, particularly degreasers, may
contain carcinogens (cancer-causing) or
suspected carcinogens that will flow into the
ground water along with the water from the soil
treatment unit.
- Send all sewage into the septic tank.
Don't run laundry wastes directly into the
drainfield, since soap or detergent scum will
plug the soil pores, causing failure.
- Normal amounts of household detergents,
bleaches, drain cleaners, and other household
chemicals can be used and won't stop the
bacterial action in the septic tank. But don't
use excessive amounts of any household
chemicals. Do not dump cleaning water for latex
paint brushes and cans into the house
sewer.
- Don't deposit coffee grounds, cooking
fats, wet-strength towels, disposable diapers,
facial tissues, cigarette butts, and other
non-decomposable materials into the house sewer.
These materials won't decompose and will fill
the septic tank and plug the system. To use a
5-gallon toilet flush to get rid of a cigarette
butt is also very wasteful of water. Keep an ash
tray in the bathroom, if necessary.
- Avoid dumping grease down the drain. It
may plug sewer pipes or build up in the septic
tank and plug the inlet. Keep a separate
container for waste grease and throw it out with
the garbage.
- If you must use a garbage disposal, you
will likely need to remove septic tank solids
every year or more often. Ground garbage will
likely find its way out of the septic tank and
plug up the drainfield. It is better to compost,
incinerate, or deposit the materials in the
garbage that will be hauled away. As one ad
says, "You can pay me now, or pay me
later."
- Use a good quality toilet tissue that
breaks up easily when wet. One way to find out
is to put a hand full of toilet tissue in a
fruit jar half full of water. Shake the jar and
if the tissue breaks up easily, the product is
suitable for the septic tank. High wet-strength
tissues are not suitable. As long as the tissue
breaks up easily, color has no effect on the
septic tank. Many scented toilet tissues have
high wet strength.
- Clean your septic tank every one to three
years. How often depends on the size of the tank
and how many solids go into it. A rule of thumb
is once every 3 years for a 1,000 gallon tank
serving a 3-bedroom home with 4 occupants (and
with no garbage disposal).
Here is a word of
caution: Never go down into a septic tank. The
gases present may poison or asphyxiate you. Only
trained professionals should enter a septic tank
or any other confined space.
- To properly clean a septic tank, the
manhole cover or the tank cover must be removed.
This is the only way to be sure that all the
solids have been pumped out. A septic tank
cannot be cleaned adequately by pumping out
liquids through a 4-inch inspection pipe. Doing
so often results in some of the scum layer
plugging the outlet baffle when the tank refills
with sewage. Be sure that the tank is opened
when it is cleaned. At this time the baffles
should be inspected and replaced if
necessary.
- Recharge wastes from a properly operating
water softener will not harm septic tank action,
but the additional water must be treated and
disposed of by the drainfield. If the softener
recharge overloads the sewage system, this waste
water can be discharged to the ground surface
since it contains no pathogens. But it must be
discharged in a location where it will not be a
nuisance or damage valuable grass or
plants.
- Using too much soap or detergent can
cause problems with the septic system. It is
difficult to estimate how dirty a load of
laundry is, and most people use far more
cleaning power than is needed. If there are lots
of suds in your laundry tub when the washer
discharges, cut back on the amount of detergent
for the next similar load. It's generally best
not to use inexpensive detergents which may
contain excessive amounts of filler or carrier.
Some of these fillers are montmorillonite clay,
which is used to seal soils! The best solution
may be to use a liquid laundry detergent, since
they are less likely to have carriers or fillers
that may harm the septic system.
Each septic
system has a certain capacity. When this
capacity is reached or exceeded, there will
likely be problems because the system won't take
as much sewage as you want to discharge into it.
When the onsite sewage treatment system reaches
its daily capacity, be conservative with your
use of water. Each gallon of water that flows
into the drain must go through the septic tank
and into the soil absorption unit. Following are
some ways to conserve water that should cause
little hardship in anyone's standard of
living:
- Be sure that there are no leaking faucets
or other plumbing fixtures. Routinely check the
float valve on all toilets to be sure it isn't
sticking and the water isn't running
continuously. It doesn't take long for the water
from a leaking toilet or a faucet to add up. A
cup of water leaking out of a toilet every
minute doesn't seem like much but that's 90
gallons a day! So be sure that there is no water
flowing into the sewer when all water-using
appliances are supposed to be off.
- Installing a water meter is a sure way to
know how much water you are using and how much
the water use will be reduced by doing certain
things. A water meter for a home should cost
from $50 to $100 plus installation.
- The most effective way to reduce the
sewage flow from a house is to reduce the toilet
wastes, which usually account for about 40
percent of the sewage flow. Many toilets use
five to six gallons per flush. Some of the
so-called low water use toilets are advertised
to use only 3.5 gallons per flush. Usually the
design of the bowl hasn't been changed, however,
and often two flushes are needed to remove all
solids. That's seven gallons! Toilets are
available which have been redesigned and will do
a good job with one gallon or less per flush.
Using a one-gallon toilet rather than a five
gallon toilet will reduce sewage flows from a
home by about a third. This reduction may be
more than enough to make the sewage system
function again. While prices may vary,
one-gallon toilets can usually be purchased in
the $200 range, far less than the cost of a new
sewage treatment system.
- With a water meter you can determine how
much water your automatic washer uses per cycle.
Many washers now have settings to reduce the
amount of water used for small loads. Front
loading washers and suds savers use less water
than top loading machines. If your sewage
treatment system is reaching its maximum
capacity, try to spread the washing out during
the week to avoid overloading the sewage system
on a single day.
- Baths and showers can use lots of water.
"Setting up camp" in the shower with a shower
head flow of 5 gallons per minute will require
100 gallons in 20 minutes. Shower heads that
limit the flow to 1.5 or 2 gallons per minute
are available and should be used. Filling the
tub not quite so full and limiting the length of
showers will result in appreciable water
savings.
- Is the water from the faucet cold enough
to drink? How long do you let it run to cool
down? Keep a container of drinking water in the
refrigerator. Then it won't be necessary to run
water from your faucets in order to get a cool
drink.
There may be other ways to conserve
water that you can think of in your home. The
main idea is to consider water as a valuable
resource and not to waste it.
Following a few
simple rules like not using too much water and
not depositing materials in the septic tank that
bacteria can't decompose should help to make a
septic system trouble-free for many years. But
don't forget the septic tank does need to be
cleaned out when too many solids build up.
Septic tanks need tender, loving care,
too!
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6.Septic Installer |
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